There is something magical that happens to your soul when you look out onto water so crystal clear that you have to touch it to make sure it’s real. This magic was everywhere in Crete. In every olive tree, wild sage bush, kind face that greats you with a wide smile, quaint ports and villages and delicious meals. In every winding road that makes your heart skip a beat and stunning view that that can simply make your heart stop.

This is Crete, Greece. An island that has something for everyone, from a relaxing beach couples getaway, a thrills seeker or a family epic adventure. This is an experience I want to share with everyone, so come on this journey with me and discover the perfect 9 day itinerary in Crete.

DAY 1: Arrival in Heraklion

The majority of our Crete trip was planned for the central and west part of the island but my husband and I chose to arrive in Heraklion as we found the airfare to be substantially less expensive than flying into Chania from Newark International Airport (EWR).

Heraklion is the largest city and capital of Crete. It’s one of 2 main entry points to the island via international airports, Heraklion Airport (HER) and Chania Airport (CHQ) as well as it’s a main port for both ferries and cruise ships.

First order of business is picking up our car. I would recommend getting a compact car. Although the main roads in Crete are easily drivable, the smaller roads that lead to beaches or other points of interest can be narrow and winding so you want something that is easily maneuverable.

We then headed to check into our hotel Infinity City Boutique Hotel which we found to be simple, elegant, comfortable and in a convenient location. With only one day in Heraklion we chose to keep it simple with an easy stroll to the Fortress. The Koules, or Rocca a Mare, is a fortress located at the entrance of the old port in Heraklion, built by the Republic of Venice in the early 16th century.

Later that evening, we had dinner at Peskesi, a farm-to-table restaurant with traditional Cretan cuisine in the heart of the city. Set in a restored historical mansion of a sea captain with stone walls and arches, the setting is like an oasis. The restaurants philosophy is to share Cretan tradition while promoting the principles of sustainable gastronomy. Each dish was a foodies dream and reservations are highly recommended.

Peskesi Restaurant. Heraklion, Crete, Greece

DAY 2: Palace of Knossos, Iraklio Wine Tour, Rethymno

A 20 minute drive from the center of Heraklion takes you to one of Crete’s most important archeological sites. Dating back to its first inhabitants in the 7th millennium B.C.E. to being the ceremonial and political center of the Minoan empire, the Palace of Knossos is a site to behold.

I definitely recommend taking a tour of the palace. Once you arrive and pass the ticket booth, you’ll notice individuals gathering together groups of people for tours. We had to wait about 15-20 minutes for enough English speakers to gather but it is absolutely worth the wait. Our guide was so informative and animated that we were fully able to immerse ourselves into the history of Minoan culture, visualize the labyrinth designed by famous architect Daedalus, which was designed in such a way that no one who enters could find their way out, and imagine the ancient Greek legend of Ariadne and Theseus and his fight with the mythical Minotaur within the labyrinth.

Next stop was Rethymno, but not without a leisurely detour through Iraklio Wine Country, which produces 70% of the wine in Crete. While driving through the beautiful local roads, we stopped at a few random wineries, passed fields of olive groves, herds of fluffy sheep, and miles of beautiful grape fields.

DAY 3: Rethymno, Preveli Beach

Upon arriving, we checked into our hotel Casa Dei Delfini, a historical mansion in the heart of Rethymno old town, which is a restoration of two adjoining stone buildings of the Venetian and Ottoman period. It was then time to explore.

Rethymno (or Rethymnon) is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Greece and one of the most beautiful in Crete. There is a charm to just wandering the various cobbled streets embellished with overhanging bougainvillea, cute cafes filled to the brim with treats, pastries and pomegranate juice, craft shops that lure collectors and window shoppers alike, and restaurants serving some of the best Cretan and Greek dishes on the Venetian Harbor. So take your time and while you walk, make sure to look up, left, right, front and down as there is beauty all around you.

After a quick breakfast of Spanakopita and pomegranate juice on a harbor bench, we drove 45min to Preveli Beach. It’s located on the south coast of Crete and according to local legend, the king of Ithaca, Odysseus, remained in the wider area of Lake Preveli after the end of the Trojan War on his return to Ithaca from Troy. One can almost visualize Odysseus traveling these roads as the drive south was BREATHTAKING, both figuratively and physically. Part of the drive was through the stunning Kourtaliotiko Gorge which is almost 2 miles long with it’s stone walls reaching about 2,000 feet high.

The entrance to the beach is about a 10-15 walk from the car park down a rocky path and stone steps with stunning views (personally, I have a fear of heights and managed ok, so don’t worry, you’ll be fine!).

Preveli Beach is unlike any beach I’ve ever seen. It is the intersection of the Kourtaliotis River with its crisp cold water, a forest of palm trees and a sandy beach with clear warmer waters. The visual impact is like an oasis protected by a symbol of love, a rock shaped as a heart, known to locals as “the stone of lovers”. After a few hours, we headed back to Rethymno to catch the sunset at the fortress.

DAY 4: Argiropouli, Lake Kournas, Chania

We’re off to our next destination, Chania, but not without 2 stunning detours along the way.

Stop number one, Argiropouli, the site of the ancient city of Lappa, and a short 20 minutes from Rethymno. This village is a small hidden paradise that echos the sounds of flowing water. Located inside a canyon this village boasts many small waterfalls, bubbling springs, and living walls with fresh spring water trickling down the lush foliage. Make sure to stop for lunch at one of the many taverns, we ate the Old Mill Restaurants located on the road a few minutes prior to reaching the village as the scenery was stunning. After lunch, work your way up to the tiny hilltop village and get lost amongst the beautiful alleys of white washed houses both lived and abandoned, backyard vegetable gardens, local shops, flowers of brilliant colors.

A short 25 minute drive from Argiropouli is Lake Kournas, the only fresh water lake in Crete. We took a relaxing paddle boat ride, kept a keen eye out for terrapin turtles, and enjoyed the colors that surrounded us. We finished off the afternoon with a snack at the taverna and a brisk swim in the lake. Once refreshed, we continued our journey to Chania and checked into Hotel Porto Antico, situated in the centre of the picturesque old Venetian harbor.

DAY 5: Chania, Balos Lagoon

Balos Lagoon is one of the most photographed beaches in Crete and can be reached via boat excursion from the Port of Kissamos, about a 45 minute drive from Chania town. It is truly one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece, with powder white sand that in places takes on a pink hue, calm turquoise waters and surrounding wild untouched nature. For long stretches, the water is warm and shallow, ideal for young children or to nestle a beach chair and read a book. As you go farther in, the water turns a deeper blue, gets slightly chillier, and offers excellent snorkeling.

The rest of our day was spent exploring Chania town. Located on the northwest coast of Crete, Chania was built upon the influence and rule of the Byzantine Empire, the Turks, and the Venetians until finally becoming part of Greece. Get lost amongst the narrow streets of the old harbor, set your sights on the lighthouse and indulge in delicious food at the waterfront restaurants.

Don’t miss the Chania outdoor street markets on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturdays. Each market is located in a different location with the largest being held Saturday’s on Minoos Street, along the western fortification wall.

DAY 6: Chania, Falasarna Beach, Elofanissi Beach

Another beautiful morning, another beach adventure. Get an early start, as the roads to/from Elofanissi are, as one might say “adventurous,” and it is highly recommended you get back to Chania town before it gets dark.

The first stop is Falasarna Beach, about a 50 minute drive west from Chania. As you approach the hill overlooking Falasarna beach, take in the stunning views as you drive the bending road down the hill for about 1.8 miles to get to the seaside. Falasarna is made up of various beaches, but we chose to visit Big Beach with its beautiful golden sand, turquoise water, backdrop of Cretan mountains, loungers and umbrellas for rent, and several beach bars for a bite to eat.

Next stop is Elofanissi Beach, which took about 1 hour and 20 minutes to get to as it’s in a remote part of the island and the roads to get there are, as mentioned previously, adventurous. The views are stunning and worth it even though the mountain roads are narrow with winding, hairpin bends, so it is highly recommended to drive slowly and leave the beach early enough so that you can get back to Chania town before dark (another 1 hour and 30 minute drive). I must say, it was a lot of driving for one day but we were refreshed after our lunch of greek salad and a frappe. If this is too much driving for you, see my side note.

Ranked as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Elofanissi was one of the destinations of this trip that I was most excited about. The white sand that is soft as powder and offers strips of pink that were created over thousands of years from the remains of tiny pink shells. The waters are calm and shallow throughout the beach, which is ideal for children, so you might have to walk a bit further if you want to swim. There are plenty of amenities such as umbrellas, loungers, showers, changing rooms, and places to get something to eat.

(Side note: If you have extra time, I recommend splitting Falasarna and Elofanissi into two days. Both beaches are incredible in their own right and deserve their own moment. However, if one must chose, then prioritize Elofanissi Beach. I was a bit too eager to visit both and wish in retrospect that I had more time at Elofanissi due to the amount of driving in one day).

DAY 7: Gorge of Imbros, Loutro

With an active day ahead, what better way to start than at the Nea Chora Thursday morning market in Chania. It was impossible to pass the stalls and NOT buy something – from plump, fist-sized figs and flaky pastries, to – somehow- a kilogram of feta! Clearly we got so excited that we accidentally added ‘kilo’ to the ‘gram’. The vendor smiled and gave us more feta than we knew what to do with. So, with feta in hand, we hopped in the car and headed to the Gorge of Imbros.

If you’re looking for things to do in Crete off the beaten track, the Gorge of Imbros is one of the island’s best kept secrets and a much quieter, family-friendly alternative to the Samaria Gorge. The Imbros Gorge walk is around 5 miles long and takes you through a dramatic limestone ravine where the walls, at times, are so narrow you can touch both sides at once. As you make your way through, you’ll be surrounded by wild herbs, the sound of birds, and even the occasional goat. To this day, when I smell sage, it brings me back to this walk. The hike is one-way – so plan your return transport before you set off – and it will take 2 to 3 hours depending on your pace. Bring plenty of water. To get back to the start, local taxis or residents with trucks and trailers will shuttle hikers back to their vehicles for around €5. My husband and I were very glad that option existed.

After the Gorge, it’s a short drive of roughly 15 minutes to the coastal village of Hora Sfakia, where we left our car behind and hopped on the evening ferry from Hora Sfakia to Loutro. Accessible only by sea or on foot, Loutro in Crete is the kind of place that stops you in your tracks the moment you arrive – whitewashed walls, crystal water, and not a car in sight. We check in for the night at Daskalogiannis Hotel and immediately felt the pace of life slow down.

DAY 8: Loutro

Today is rest day. With no roads and no cars, Loutro asks nothing of you – and that’s exactly the point. The only sounds are the gentle lapping of the water. We spent the morning wandering the village, which, let’s be honest, takes about 10 minutes, before settling in for a long, lazy lunch at one of the local tavernas, where fresh fish and cold white wine felt like the only logical choice. The afternoon was spent on the pebble beach, soaking it all in. One important tip: pack water shoes for Loutro – you will be greateful the moment you step into the water. If you do forget, which my husband did, there are vendors selling them, so no need to worry.

The water in Loutro is so crystal clear, the little wooden boats moored in the bay appear to float in mid-air rather than sit on the water, and it’s the kind of view that makes you put your phone down – which, in itself, says everything. If you are looking for a peaceful, car-free village in Crete to exhale after adventuring, Loutro will deliver.

All good things must come to an end. We caught the late afternoon ferry back from Loutro, watching the rugged southern coastline fade into the distance – a fitting farewell to one of the most special corners of Crete. From Hora Sfakia, we picked up the car and made the drive to Heraklion for our final night at the GDM Megaron Hotel in the city center, and with its own parking lot, dropping the car off couldn’t be easier. Do not skip the dinner at the rooftop restaurant – the food was great, and the view over Heraklion at sunset was an even better send-off.

DAY 9: Heraklion Departure

Departure day is always bittersweet. A final Greek coffee on the hotel terrace, one last look at the Cretan sunshine, and then it’s time. Heraklion International Airport (HER), also known as Nikos Kazantzakis Airport, is just 10 minutes from the city center, which made GDM Megaron an ideal last night base.

A few tips to make your departure as smooth as possible:

Allow extra time – Heraklion airport is a busy, mid-sized airport and queues at security can move slowly, especially in peak summer season. Aim to arrive with time to spare.
Return your rental car – the rental return area is well signposted at the airport. Factor in an extra 20-30 minutes if returning a car on departure day.
Food – the airside options are decent but not extensive, so grab breakfast at the hotel before you leave.

And that’s a wrap. We flew home with full hearts, tired feet, and already thinking about when we could come back to beautiful Crete.

Chasing Travel Dreams

The Ultimate 9 Days in Crete, Greece

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